Lincoln Creek Area

The bouldering around Lincoln Creek Road is fairly spread out but for the most part easy to get to. The Sunset Boulder and Cubism Area offer a good range of problems with a variety of heights and difficulty. The areas near to Lincoln Creek campground offer some fun moderate problems as well as some tough projects. A bit further down the road is the Camp 5 boulder and surrounding problems. Camp 5 offers something for everyone and is blessed with nice landings and a quiet setting. On the way don't miss the Treasure Chest or the Egg for some good bouldering as well.

Directions

Lincoln Creek Rd. intersects with Hwy 82 approximately 9.8 miles east of Aspen, just uphill from mile marker 51.

Lincoln Creek area overview

River Boulder

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Roadside Boulder

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Powerline Boulders

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Pothole Area

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Outhouse and Urinary Tract Walls

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Intruders

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Sunset Boulder and Cubism Area Overview

Sunset Boulder and Cubism Area Overview

[1] Sunset Boulder (see left)

Directions:

Park at the gate for Lincoln Creek rd. and walk across the bridge. Take a left and head upstream for about 100yds looking for a trail that veers off to the left and uphill (usually marked by a cairn) Head uphill 5 - 10 mins until you see the giant Sunset boulder on your left.

[2-9] Cubism Area (see left)

Directions:

Follow the same trail to the Sunset boulder but continue up hill for another 50yds. You will pop out at the base of the Cube.

 

[1] Sunset Boulder

Sunset Boulder

 

1. PROJECT [V??] The arete left of Target Practice on slopers.

2. Target Practice [V4] Starts on and follows the overhanging crack then heads out right. SDS is V8

3. Sunset Cruise [V8] Start matched on the sloped crimper rail and campus to a square jug. Head up and right to an crimp rail then to a wide sloper at the lip and top out to the left. Climbing straight up from the jug (meeting up with the top of Sunset Crack) is about V7.

4. Superman [V??] Start on underclings and head left then up to a huge sloper.

5. PROJECT [V??] Start the same as #4 but head out right and to the top.

6. Ray [V??] Start low on slopers and climb straight up.

7. Warmup arete [V1]

8. Sunset Dihedral [V2] Climb the obvious dihedral. SDS is V4.

9. Gravy [V5] Start low under the dihedral and traverse right then move up the face with a critical heel.

10. Motze [V7] Start low on the arete and lunge to the top.

11. Mo’s Press [V0] Mantel. Downclimbing above Mo’s Press and jumping off is the also the easiest way to get off of the top.

12. Spades [V6] Starts on a slope rail and climbs up and left.

13. Ace of Spades [V4] Jump start to a jug in the middle of the face then traverse up and left to a highball topout.

14. Marathon Man [V??] Follows the seam up then traverses left and then up again. Highball city.

15. PROJECT [V??] An excellent face project with a cleaned topout. Start on good edges and head up and right, following a crimp seam.

 

[2-9] Cubism Area

Cubism Area

The Cube

 

1. The Cube [V3] Climbs the east face of the cube. Highball.

2. Cubism [V??] Climb the arete just left of #1.

 

Triangle Boulder and Shorty Boulder

 

3. Triangulate [V4] Start with the right hand on a good sidepull and the left hand on a small, high crimp, then throw a fun dyno to a jug under the lip.

4. The Lip [V0] Start low on a giant sidepull and climb the lip up and left.
Shorty Boulder

5. Shorty [V1] SDS under the mini-roof and climb up the arete. Short but fun.

 

Wedge Boulder and Zebra Boulder

 

6. The Slice [V??] SDS under the overhang. Bust out to the lip and mantel over

7. The Knob [V1] Start with the left hand on a good edge and the right hand on a sloped edge in the middle of the face. Step on and reach the knob and turn the lip.

8. The Wedge [V2] SDS matched on a good edge. Climb straight up through the wedges.

9. Zebra Slab [V0] Climb the slab on big crystal edges

10. Zebra Left [V1] Start on good edges at 5ft and climb straight up. A SDS on the low edge and big sidepull is maybe V4.

11. Zebra Right [V0] Start matched on right-leaning rail and climb straight up.

 

Moss Line Boulder and Slanted Aspect Boulder

 

12. Moss Line [V2] Squat start on big hold and move up to a left-facing rail then to positive holds over the rounded lip. Semi-bad landing so take a spotter.

13. Slanted Aspect [V2] Great moves! Start just right of the blocky arete matched on a good left-angling edge. Climb straight up on slanted edges and rounded edges to a jug at the top. The arete is a bit hollow so be aware.

14. Stand On It [V?] The slab just right of #1. Start on a good edge at 5ft and figure out how to get your feet on it and grab the good hold at the top.

15. Scooped [V1] Climbs an orange-lichened scooped face with good holds on the arete and not much on the face.

 

Project Boulder

 

16. Cubism Face [V4]

17. PROJECT [V??]

 

The Egg

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Directions:

Park just before the first big switchback in the road and walk into the woods (East) following the trail past several walls (Finger Food Wall and Sunset Cantina) before coming across the giant egg shaped boulder.

Treasure Chest

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Directions:

Park 1/4 mile down Lincoln Creek Rd. before the first two campsites at a pullout with various signs (The campground is a fee area with pay parking) Follow the trail down to the water and walk upstream, you will come to the bouldering just below campsite #2.

Beatle Juice and Camp 5 Main Wall

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Directions:

Park as for the Treasure Chest but walk down Lincoln Creek Rd. to campsite #5,the trail to Beetle Juice and the Camp 5 Boulder is just above the campsite at the base of the obvious wall (Camp 5 Main Wall)

 

Camp 5 Boulder

Camp 5 Boulder

Camp 5 Boulder

 

1. Camp 5 Traverse [V5] Start on the far left side of the east face and traverse right. Turn the corner to meet up with and finish #3.

2. Diffusion [V2] Climbs the highest part of the east face through a small dihedral up high. Start 5ft left of the arete. Highball.

3. Camp 5 [V5] Start on the jug at the 4ft level, 3ft right of the arete and follow the seam up and right and top out. Dropping from the lip is V2

4. Sliver [V7] Start as for #3 but climb straight up, pulling over the lip and topping out directly.

5. [V?] SDS on the left facing jugs down and right of the start jug of Camp 5 and climb straight up to join Camp 5 at the lip.

6. Cheesedogs [V7] Start on crimps at the 4ft level directly in front of the pine tree. Move up and left to join Camp 5.

7. Chili Cheese Dogs [V9] Start on a blocky hold 4ft right of Cheesedogs and traverse left to finish up Cheesedogs.

8. Robinson's Rail [V9] Start on a high pinch rail, high heel, cross to a crimp then move out right to rail. Topout to the right.

9. Clean Air [V7] Start as for #10 but at the lip traverse left on faceholds and top out.

10. [V3] SDS 1ft right of the small boulder at the base and climb the overhanging dihedral. At the lip stay left and climb the juggy arete to top out.

11. [V2] Start the same as #10 but escape right at 12ft onto the ramp to top out.

12. [V?] SDS on the low end of the ramp and climb left to the topout of #11.

13. Obscure Warmup [V1] The rounded face 3ft to the right of #12.

 

Southern Boulders

Southern Boulders

Southern Boulders and Satellites

To reach the Southern Boulders and Satellites head left (east) from the Camp 5 boulder along the trail. Southern Satellite 1 is only about 100 ft along the trail on the left. The bases of the Satellites can be totally swampy during the melt season or if there has been a lot of rain.

Southern Satellites 1 and 2

 

1. Sputnik [V0?] SDS on the right arete.

2. Orbiter [V0?] Climbs the face just right of the left arete.

3. Shortnik [V0?] Start on the right arete and climb left and up.

 

Aspen Boulder

 

4. Barracks [V2] Climbs the face on the west side.

5. Aspen Arete [V5] Climb the classic arete with and aspen at your back.

6. PROJECT [V??] In a scalloped face just right of Aspen arete. Climbs on protruding pinches.

7. Sprung [V5] On the talus side of the boulder. Climbs the face starting low on crimpers.

 

Stompin Boulder

 

8. Clompin [V1] The arete left of Stompin.

9. Stompin [V7] Start on low crimps and move up to a sloper and topout.

10. Chompin [V1] Climbs the rounded dihedral on the opposite side of Stompin.